Hidden away in the backstreets of Dotonbori amongst all the okonomiyaki and izakayas, Osaka’s Hozenji Temple is perhaps best known for its moss-covered statue of the deity Fudo-myo-o.
One of the most unusual and beautiful Buddhist temples in Osaka, the tiny temple of Hozenji and its moss-like figure is an easy two minute walk from the main Tonburi river area and famous Glico Man sign.
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Part of the main allure of the Hozenji Temple is not only the mossy growth over one of the statues to almost turn it into a green man but also the unlikely location.
It is literally a small temple snugly hidden down a back street (‘Yokocho’) with various overt Osaka comings and goings associated with the Dotonbori entertainment district. Go late at night and it could be just you and the local cats at the temple.
From the moss-man deity to the interesting characters that visit, here is our full guide to Osaka’s Hozenji Temple.
This article was originally published on 19 February 2024.
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How to get to Hozenji Temple / Hozenji Yokocho
Located in Osaka, the Hozenji Temple and Hozenji Yokocho are just a short five minute walk away from Ebisubashi Bridge, the Glico Man sign or Kura Sushi Dotonbori.
The closest train station to Hozenji Temple and Yokocho is the Osaka-Namba station on the Hanshin – Namba Line, or the Namba Subway Station. The shrine is a 3 minute walk from both stations.
What is the Hozenji Temple?
A small shaded shrine and temple located at the foot of Hozenji Yokocho (the epicenter of back-street bars and iconic izakayas), the Hozenji Temple is a small shrine and temple complete with a water bucket where locals come to take part in Haka-mairi or hakamairi (the religious ritual cleaning of one’s hands and grave area).
The temple dates back to the Edo and parts of the shrine were relocated here in the 1630s, from another site in Uji, near Kyoto.
This part of Dotonbori didn’t used to be so desirable and there was mainly graves around here – to help cleanse the area, local monks undertook a thousand day ritual (“sennichi nenbutsu”, which is how the nearby Sennichimae-dori (“street in front of Sennichi”) got its name.
Perhaps the most likely reason why the Hozenji Temple is so famous is the mossy Fudo Myo statue (of a wrathful deity) and the juxtaposition of the location – a peaceful place in the midst of chaotic scenes and busy restaurants and food vendors.
The Mossy Statue Statue of Hozenji Temple (Fudo Myo)
Almost like something out of a Marvel movie or horror film, the Fudo Myo statue here along with two statues either side have become covered in a green- moss or algae like substance. If you grew up watching He-Man (ヘマン), the statue looks just like He-Man’s Moss Man character.
But why is this particular Osaka temple statue so mossy?
When worshippers visit the Hozenji temple and pray to the Fudo Myo-o statue, most visitors use one of the small water buckets and splash the statue with water.
Given the alleyway / Hozenji Yokocho location (which is often quite dark), it has created optimum conditions for the moss to grow (and grow and grow).
The whole effect is like a very grassy or mossy man is watching over the temple – it is kind of spooky but also quite spiritual as though the statue has become a life-form of its own.
This is definitely one of the more quirky and unusual things to do in Osaka and Dotonbori (and that is coming from someone who has ridden Osaka’s Don Quijote ferris wheel…)
Seitakadoji and Kongaradoji statues are also in place next to the main Fudo Myo-o statue.
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Who is Fudo Myo-o?
The centre-piece of the Hozenji Osaka Temple, Fudo Myo-o is the main ‘Myo’ – or ‘Lord of Light / Bright King’ (of five) who drives away evil spirits (well, no small wonder if you saw all that moss coming after you…).
His name translates as “the immovable one” and Fudo Myo-o protects Buddhism and its worshippers.
Many people now make the trip to Fudo Myo-o to douse the statues (Fudo Myo-o, Seitakadoji and Kongaradoji) in water and witness this ‘mossy miracle’ with their own eyes.
History of Hozenji Temple in Osaka
The original Hozenji Temple is said to have been built in the 1630s in a former burial area and graveyard – this was years before it became the famous Dotonbori entertainment area so it would have been much more peaceful and quieter back then.
Sadly, most of the Hozenji Temple was devastated by air raids and bombs over the years, so most of the current Hozenji Temple dates back to the 1940s when it was destroyed and subsequently rebuilt.
Japanese Prayer Boards and Omikuji
The small temple and shrine to the left of the Fudo Myo-o across the cobbled path is home to lanterns and prayer plaques.
Locals and Osaka citizens use these prayer plaques to ask the deities for health, wealth and love plus success at school (kind of like manifestation).
Once completed, these colourful prayer boards are hung up all the grounds and in trees and across special boards, creating a tapestry of thoughts and prayers.
You will also sometimes see Omikuji, which are small pieces of tied paper which tell fortunes in Japan – if you receive a ‘good fortune’, you can either take it home or tie it up in the temple to increase your likelihood of good luck.
Omikuji are available to purchase in the Hozenji Temple via donation boxes.
There is also a counter / shop open during the day on the left-hand side where you can buy amulets and other good luck charms.
When is the Hozenji Temple open?
Unlike some temples, there aren’t any walls or barriers around the mossy deity statues so you can visit Hozenji Temple 24 hours a day, seven days a week.
How much does it cost to visit the Hozenji Temple?
The Hozenji Temple is free to visit and is open 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. Donations are appreciated.
When is the best time to visit the Hozenji Temple?
Given its popularity (especially on social media), the Namba Yasaka shrine can be very busy from mid morning until early evening.
There is often a line of people who wish to worship and splash water on the Fudo Myo-o moss statue and other deity figures.
If you can try, perhaps the best time to visit the Hozenji Temple is at night, as the alleyway (Hozen-ji Yokocho) is more atmospheric at night plus the lanterns are all lit.
After you’ve paid your respects, be sure to visit one of the nearby Hozen-ji Yokocho restaurants (there are several famous kushi katsu and okonomiyaki restaurants within a 2 minute walk of the temple).
If you visit at night, you might also see another famous Osaka local character lurking in the shadows of the temple – the Osaka Dotonbori Wolfen.
This is essentially a mystery man dressed in a wolf mask and long blue coat who helps clean the streets and also plays his melodica at night.
On our last visit to Hozenji Temple, the Dotonbori Wolfen was lurking in the background to the right of Fudo Myo-o playing with stray cats – a very surreal Osaka experience!
Read more about our Osaka Dotonbori wolfen / wolfman sightings here (with video)>
Other things to know Hozenji Temple and Yokocho
- In early 2022, Osaka police arrested a man for removing the moss from the neighbouring Seitakadoji and Kongaradoji statues. He was subsequently released without charge (to note he didn’t remove the moss from Fudo Myo-o, just the two neighbouring statues).
- Paddles and religious water buckets are provided by the temples.
- Around 1644, Hozenji Temple held a special service/ prayer for 1,000 days and nights. “Sennichi” in Japanese means ‘1000 days, so this shrine is also known as Sennichi temple (千日寺).
Hozenji Temple and Yokocho Address
1 Chome-2-16 Namba, Chuo Ward, Osaka, 542 – 0076, Japan.
Other things to do near Hozenji Temple
Hozenji Yokocho has so much going on both day and night, from cool lunchtime eateries to epic neon-lit izakayas and kushikatsu restaurants.
Just a 30 second walk away brings you to the popular Hozenji branch of the famous Osaka kushikatsu chain, Kushikatsu Daruma – expect queues in the evening but it is a lot quieter in the day.
Honke Otako Hozenji
We also discovered this incredible family-run Osaka okonomiyaki restaurant within yards of the Hozenji Temple.
Honke Otako Hozenji serves an incredible array of okonomiyaki cooked fresh in front of you on a hot griddle.
Upstairs, there are several traditional Japanese style horigotatsu tables (tables that are low to the ground and have a recessed floor beneath). Beer prices are also very good. We went there a couple of times as the okonomiyaki was so tasty!
Sennichimae Street
A huge covered shopping street in Osaka, Sennichimae Street is full of kitchenware stores and restaurants open all hours.
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Shinsekai
Nearby Shinsekai is something else, a vintage Osaka neighborhood full of retro restaurants, bright neon lights and the famous Tsutenkaku Tower.
Known as Osaka’s ‘New World’ District, it is fine to visit any time of day but Shinsekai comes alive at night. It is the polar opposite of the relative peace and quiet of Hozenji temple
From 24-hour izakayas to late night-shopping, Shinsekai is buzzing with back street bars, classic kushikatsu joints and retro arcades.
Alas Shinsekai’s famous puffer fish sign may have gone, but the area looks nicely nostalgic and there are food stalls and restaurants to suit all budgets and tastes (literally).
From street-karting to kaitzensushi, takoyaki to traditional archery (kyudo), these are the best things to do in Shinsekai >
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